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Cutter 1.42 - User Guide and FAQ

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Calculation of a basic pattern

Open a window for choosing a basic pattern to work with either by pressing Ctrl+N or by double click on tools panel, or by clicking File > New pattern. It appears automatically with the startup of the program. Select the desired pattern by mouse click and click the left button again on the pattern icon or double click the button "Choose" to choose the pattern for the calculation.

Input the necessary measurements. A measurement selected for input is shown on the model figure. The range of the most frequently used numbers for the allowances is shown. All measurements are indicated with the most common abbreviations, though their full names appear as prompts and shown sin the status line in the lower left corner of the main window.

Having input the measurements you can fill in the additional information into the fields "Pattern" "Client" "Comments to the order". This information will be shown on the printout as well. Only the first 27 lines of comments will be printed out. The program keeps count of the orders, which you can correct in the form you can open by clicking the right button on the field "Pattern"

To calculate a basic pattern press "Calculate" button or press Ctrl+C.

After the calculation is done (it happens almost immediately) the form "Basic pattern" will be either opened or brought to front is case it has been already opened, with the pattern draft in one forth scale model and tables for making a full scale pattern.

You can maximize this form and take a look on the draft in one forth, one third, one second and in full scale format. To switch between the scales use the dropdown list on tools panel. If the dropdown list is in focus then the switching between the scales is going on when rolling the mouse wheel outside the form borderline.

To print the design draft and the tables double click Print button or press Ctrl+P or select File>Print on the main form. It will be printed in A4 format in one forth scale model.

Additional functions

Tools panel of Basic Pattern form is identical to the one of the main form. All functions presented on tools panel are available from the menu of the main form. Except for the actions described in the section "Pattern calculation" the program makes it possible to save the patterns together with the comments in a file and to open the previously saved files. All measures are saved together with the comments.

To adjust the printing settings go to File > Printing settings. There is a corresponding button on the Tools panel.

To clear up the Basic Pattern form and all the fields for input of new data go to Edit > Clear up or press the corresponding button of Tools Panel.

To switch between the main form to the Basic Pattern form and vice versa go to Edit>Switch or use the key combination Ctrl+F or the corresponding button on the Tools Panel.

Making a pattern according to a draft design

The patterns in full scale are convenient to use when continuously cutting out garments of the same style and size, for example, when producing the garments according to absolute measurements of standard figures. This program was developed for the designing of garments according to the custom measurements, when the patterns are typically used only once. In this case it will be impractical to make large patterns as it leads to the heavy consumption of time, paper and piling up unnecessary pieces of patterns. For example, printing out a pattern of trousers in full scale on A4 sheets will make you to glue 12 sheet for the front half and 12 sheets for the back half of trousers strictly according to the tracing lines and to cut pattern pieces on the contour lines.

The mass spread of cheap models of ink-jet printers which use A4 format, makes it well grounded for the custom apparel artists to use the following method: to make all necessary alterations in a design using the printout of the pattern in one forth scale model (one of the standard ones used in pattern) and then using the pattern and drawing scale of a cutter lay the pattern pieces out directly on fabric, putting them together in the most rational way.

The table of the basic measurements of a pattern is given to help with the layout, in which the first letter of a length points out to the initial and the second letter points out to the final point of the measurement. These lengths are to be laid out on fabric in the order they are given in the table which ensures the coherent and convenient drafting of a pattern. Alterations made during the styling are put to fabric with the help of cutters drawing scale.

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